December 15, 2024

We set off from an estancia in Las Horquetas, where we had spent the night. The decor and style of the interior gave it the feel of the Addams Family’s residence. This estancia sits amidst vast plains with sparse vegetation, which becomes lush only near watercourses.

“…the road ran long and straight…” as Guccini sang! Here in Argentina, roads have very few curves, stretching endlessly straight into the horizon of the plains.

Today, we covered nearly 120 km to reach Gobernador Gregores, riding on a completely paved road. After countless kilometers of ripio, we were no longer used to such a smooth and easy surface.

On these roads, the wind reigns supreme! Only four of us set off, as the other two had flat tires, and we had run out of spare inner tubes after the Paso Mayer adventure and numerous punctures.

More than a bike ride, it felt like a sailing regatta with the wind at our backs for most of the route, allowing us to cover the 120 km in just 3.5 hours—professional-level times!

The wind’s steady direction, combined with the road’s few curves, meant that whenever the road turned, the wind would hit us from the side, and at times we were even “tacking.”

Along the way, we encountered only a few trucks and the occasional guanaco (Lama guanicoe), gracefully sprinting across the plains and elegantly leaping over fences in its path. I found myself wondering, Where is that solitary llama running to? Where could it be heading when there isn’t a soul in sight for miles around? And yet, I never saw one stop to consider where to go—they just run. Perhaps they’re vain and know full well that watching them run is a spectacle. The guanaco’s elegant sprint is a captivating mix of grace and strength, a movement that enchants with its fluidity and natural beauty.

By late morning, we arrived in the small village of Gobernador Gregores with minimal effort and a nice tan from the bright sun.