January 08, 2025

We had 113 km to cover today, but thunderstorms were forecast. We started at 8 AM to try to stay ahead of the storm.

The first 50 km went well, but then the weather hit: 50 km/h winds and heavy rain. After a few kilometers, we couldn’t go on and climbed into the camper to warm up. It was 11 AM, so we had some bread, ham, and cookies while checking the radar, which showed the weather would improve in 20 minutes.

The rain stopped, and we set off again. A few kilometers later, we saw the sign: we were entering Magallanes Province, officially at the “end of the world.” When Magellan discovered these lands, he had no idea how challenging they were and ironically called the turbulent ocean the “Pacific.”

We rode like rockets and by 2 PM were in sight of our destination: the Estancia Río Penitente. We were welcomed by the estancia’s Patagonian llamas.

The estancia, dating back to 1890, featured enormous and fascinating library rooms. After arriving, everyone took a siesta with a cold cerveza!

After dinner, we strolled through the estancia’s grounds, passing old tools, workshops, and the servants’ cottages. Inside, we enjoyed the cozy interiors with fireplaces in every room, creaking wooden floors, and the scent of history.

In the last century, estancias like this were self-sufficient, isolated worlds. Around 30 families lived here, including blacksmiths, stable hands, gauchos, carpenters, cooks, and more, each with their own house and workshop surrounding the main building.