December 27, 2024

Five of us decide to tackle the journey by bike, while one of us (Nicola) opts to come along in the camper to provide support if needed.

We’re excited because visiting Perito Moreno is one of the iconic highlights of the trip, but we’re also apprehensive since the 75 km ride will be against the wind. Worst-case scenario, we can all hop in the camper.

It becomes clear from the start that this won’t be easy: while the wind isn’t particularly strong (around 20 km/h), it’s blowing directly against us. We manage to pedal at about 17–18 km/h. Along the way, we encounter an endless flock of sheep herded by gauchos on horseback and numerous sheepdogs tirelessly rounding up unruly stragglers.

At the 40 km mark, it feels like a dream: after a curve, the wind shifts in our favor, and we speed along at 40 km/h. Unfortunately, the bliss lasts only 3 km.

After entering the park, we encounter the usual curse of flat tires—this time, it’s Alberto’s rear wheel.

Then, after four hours of riding, the Perito Moreno Glacier suddenly comes into view from above, leaving us speechless.

The glacier is named after Francisco Pascasio Moreno (1852–1919), an Argentine scientist, explorer, and geographer who played a crucial role in defining the disputed borders between Chile and Argentina at the turn of the 20th century. Moreno’s work established unequivocally that a portion—albeit a smaller one—of the immense Southern Patagonian Ice Field (the world’s third-largest reserve of freshwater, after Antarctica and Greenland), which had been entirely attributed to Chile, actually belonged to Argentina. In 1896, Moreno was appointed “Perito” by the Argentine government to the Comisión de Límites entre Argentina y Chile, tasked with resolving the border disputes. The glacier bears his name in gratitude for his contributions.

The glacier itself resembles an immense white sea advancing toward you.

After four and a half hours, we finally arrive. First, we explore the walkways, which provide a breathtaking frontal view of the glacier, and then we board a boat to see it from the side, across the lake.

By 4 p.m., we’ve finished the visit. Pierluigi and Fabio decide to cycle back, while the rest of us, doubtful of their decision, return in the camper.

The return ride is wind-assisted: just over two hours to cover 75 km. It’s like flying.

In the evening, Stefano and Alberto prepare a dinner of rice and vegetables—a welcome break after many heavy meals—and we discuss plans for the coming days.

Finally, we head to bed, but as soon as we close our eyes, the immense glacier appears once more in our minds…