December 18, 2024

We’ve arrived in the realm of Cesare Maestri, Toni Egger (who tragically died here), Ermanno Salvaterra, and countless debates about the first ascents of CERRO TORRE.

Its allure, beyond its sheer vertical wall of more than 1,000 meters, stems from the first ascent claimed by Cesare Maestri. Did he really reach the summit as he described? Or was it a lie to cover up his failure?

El Chaltén is the town from which legendary hikes to the Fitz Roy massif begin. This range includes Cerro Torre and many other spires with walls up to 1,000 meters high. These mountains were, for years, considered the most challenging in the world to climb.

We need to plan our excursions to at least get a close look at them in the coming days. At the tourist office, much to our surprise, they inform us that, starting November 1st, entering the park costs €45 per day. We’re all a bit shaken—some more than others.

We rush to the entrance to check, and the park ranger provides us with a lot of helpful information on… how to avoid paying the entry fee.

We immediately put the tips to use with a 4 km walk to the Mirador del Cóndor and Mirador de las Águilas, battling a wind that threatens to knock us down with its unpredictable and violent gusts.

On our way back, the cold wind is joined by freezing rain, forcing us indoors for dinner, where Stefano and Antonio have prepared a pasta with ragù.

We all head to bed, hoping for decent weather the next morning so we can enjoy a beautiful hike to Fitz Roy.