January 05, 2025

Today marks our second trek after the Torres del Paine, this time heading toward Lake and Grey Glacier from Lake Pehoé. The hike is 10 kilometers of ups and downs each way, but with fewer crowds and large groups compared to two days ago at Torres.

The day begins with a bit of drama at the dock (the first leg of the route is by catamaran). Alberto disappears, and the boat captain is adamant about leaving on time. We spot Alberto strolling back to the camper at a leisurely pace to double-check everything is turned off. On his return, however, he realizes the urgency and barely makes it back in time.

As we approach the Grey Lake refuge, the various miradores along the trail start revealing the grandeur we came all this way to see: two tongues of glacier ice separated by a rocky peninsula. One stretches 500 meters and the other about a kilometer wide, extending 16 kilometers toward the mountains. It’s one of the most awe-inspiring natural spectacles I’ve ever witnessed and alone justifies this journey to Patagonia.

The other spectacle is the sheer number of young hikers encountered on the trails and at the refuge (truth be told, we are the only older ones!). They come from all over the world, speaking countless languages, yet all share a love for the mountains and the effort of trekking through them. This simplicity and authenticity are becoming increasingly rare on the polished trails of places like Cortina or Courmayeur!

A Funny Note: Alberto and Gigi decided to stretch outside the refuge, which caught the attention of a group of Americans. They joined us to laugh and watch, and a cheerful young woman even started imitating their moves!

We spent the night in a tent (an experience I hadn’t had in 40 years), made more entertaining by Antonio’s company. Tomorrow, we’re looking forward to a kayaking adventure—weather permitting.